Part Six

1960’s and BEYOND
The ‘Anderston Cross Comprehensive Development’ proposals of 1959 would, when fully implemented, bring about the biggest change in Anderston’s history and would have a huge impact on the people living in the 3,376 dwellings and those employed in the 317 industrial and commercial properties situated within the area. The district had been subjected to redevelopment and housing improvement in the past but, by and large, the community had been left intact. This latest report identified in particular a substantial number of decaying properties and homes that were bereft of basic amenities:

It would be difficult to argue with the study, many buildings were in extremely poor condition, but few residents could have envisioned the changes about to be thrust upon the area. It was proposed that the population would be reduced from 11,500 in 1959 to less than 4,000 once the redevelopment process was complete. Whilst the decrease in population was expected, the complete reconfiguration of the district was not; the area was to be swept away in its entirety. Gone forever would be the familiar geographical layout of the streets; Argyle Street would be cut in two and would no longer be one of the city’s major thoroughfares. Construction of the Clydeside Expressway ensured that Stobcross Street would disappear completely. Entire housing areas would be removed and not replaced. But, all was not doom and gloom; there was also the promise of a bright future for those who hoped to stay in the new Anderston. Once redevelopment was underway it would be relatively easy to build new dwellings, however, the real challenge for the planners was to retain the community spirit.

The 1960’s got off to a bad start when, in March of that year, a terrible fire at a Whisky-bond in Cheapside Street claimed the lives of nineteen firemen. Shortly after this terrible tragedy the redevelopment plan was implemented and the population of the district were re-housed in two great sweeps, the first during 1960-65 and the second during 1966-1980. I can still clearly recall the condition of a number of the tenement properties prior to demolition. While still at school, I worked as a milk-delivery boy for the Garden Rose Dairy, 671 Argyle Street; my route included every street stretching from Oswald Street at the Broomielaw up to McIntyre Street. On one occasion, in 1961, while delivering milk, at the top end of Bishop Street, I found that the entire close entrance had collapsed into a basement cellar, trapping the residents in their homes. I recall some of the crumbling tenement buildings, particularly in Carrick Street and McAlpine Street, with their communal toilets situated on the half-landing. On a number of occasions whilst delivering milk, at the lower end of McAlpine Street, I tripped over vagrants who were sleeping on the wooden floors of the pitch-black corridors. I expect the men had been locked-out from the local Lodging Houses. Interestingly, despite the poverty prevalent in parts of Anderston, it is testimony to the honesty of the locals that I never had any milk stolen from my barrow.

At Anderston Cross, McIntosh Removals occupied premises at the Weavers’ Pend in Argyle Street. Inside the Pend were the remains of the ‘Wee Cork’s’ premises. On the opposite side of the street, just along from the Army & Navy Store, was the Gaiety Cinema, which was acquired by the Corporation in 1963 and converted into ‘The Glasgow Concert Hall’ as a temporary measure to fill the gap left when St. Andrew’s Halls were destroyed by fire. The Gaiety finally fell victim to the bulldozers in 1968.

1968 a Year of Disaster
For many people 1968 was a memorable year for all the wrong reasons. Throughout the night of 15th January and into the early hours of the following morning, Glasgow was battered by hurricane force winds. The storm accounted for the lives of twenty people across central Scotland. Nine people died in Glasgow, including that of a Port Street resident, who was killed when masonry from a chimneybreast fell through the roof of a tenement. Those who managed to sleep through the storm awoke the following morning to find the atmosphere still heavy with thick grey dust and the streets littered with debris that had been ripped from buildings. So great was the scale of devastation that soldiers from the Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders were called to help clear the streets of rubble. The storm left many tenement properties uninhabitable and for many months tarpaulins covered gaping holes in the rooftops. It appeared as though nature was intent on having a hand in hastening the demise of some of Anderston’s old tenement buildings.

Another catastrophe visited the area in November of 1968, comparable only to that of the Cheapside Street fire some eight years earlier. Twenty-two workers perished when a clothing factory in James Watt Street caught fire. Fire exits were either inaccessible, or were locked, leaving the hapless victims trapped behind iron-barred windows. Firemen made desperate attempts to rescue the workers by sawing through the iron bars, but their valiant efforts were in vain. Passers-by could only stand watching in horror as billowing clouds of black smoke overcame the trapped workforce.

CHARACTERS 1950-60
Every generation produces memorable characters and I clearly recall a number of such people from my youth. 'Greasy Beard' was an elderly, unshaven gent, who could be seen regularly traversing the Cranstonhill area. He always dressed in World War One, khaki cavalry uniform, complete with officers hat and knee high, full-lace ridingboots. Exactly why he dressed in this fashion, no one knew.

'Woodbine Annie' could be seen regularly meandering the streets of Anderston and, on occasion, she would be seen entertaining shoppers in Sauchiehall Street. No matter the weather 'Annie' was always dressed in an old ankle-length fur coat. She stood about five feet tall and the weight of her fur coat seemed to weigh her down. She would take up her stance, produce a mouth organ from her pocket and begin dancing to her own accompaniment. As a teenager, whilst delivering milk for the Garden Rose Dairy, I often saw Annie leaving the Model Lodging House in McAlpine Street at around 5.30 in the morning to begin her wanderings. Most folk who knew of Annie described her as a ‘poor wee soul’. Another person, who made a lasting impression on me at that time, was a tall, white-haired, upright gent, dressed in overalls, who whistled 'Onward Christian Soldiers’ as he strutted briskly along Cranston Street at around 6.30 each morning. The point of interest is, he never changed his repertoire, and always managed to give a smile and a nod of acknowledgment, without breaking tempo or melody as he marched on by.

Beggars frequently came around the backcourts singing. Even as a very young child, I remember one beggar in particular, who had an exceptionally fine voice. Apparently the chap was a trained opera singer, who had performed at the La Scala, Milan, before he fell on hard times, caused by alcohol related problems. Although we were what could largely be termed a poor community, there was always someone willing to share some of the little they had with the less fortunate. It was not uncommon for a neighbour to throw some coins, or a sandwich wrapped in paper, from a kitchen window to the appreciative beggar in the backcourt below.

On Sunday afternoons the Salvation Army came around the backcourts playing instruments, singing choruses and preaching the Gospel. Sunday was lived at a different pace; Sunday afternoon was a time for visiting relatives or bargain hunting at the Barra’s. Housewives would never dream of washing the stairs or hanging out a washing on the Sabbath.

As youngsters we spent a great deal of time in our fruitless search for a Roman well that was supposedly located in William Street near North Street. There was a local policeman we referred to as 'Jump-the-dyke' due to his ability to seemingly leap effortlessly in a single bound over the five-foot high walls separating each backcourt. The police had a much greater presence in the area and as they walked their beat they became familiar to us, as we no doubt did to them!

Whilst many Anderston people became actively engaged in the life and work of the local community, there has never been a shortage of individuals capable of making an impact on the wider society. Michael Martin was one such person, a sheet-metal worker to trade, he rose through the ranks of the political parties and, on 23rd October 2000, he was elected Speaker of the House of Commons. On a more parochial level, another local to achieve high political office was Alex Mosson, who became Lord Provost of Glasgow. In the world of entertainment, the versatile Billy Connolly, alias ‘The Big Yin’, was born in Anderston in 1942 where he spent the first few years of his life. In later years Connolly left his job in the shipyards in search of fame as a folksinger with the ‘Humblebums’. He went on to become an accomplished actor and writer. Another very talented local who became a show business personality is Tony Roper, who has made a huge impact both as an actor and writer. To many he will forever be remembered as ‘Jamesie’, Rab C. Nesbit’s associate. However, surely one of his finest achievements to date is his award wining play ‘The Steamie’ an outstanding and highly entertaining portrayal of life in the 1950’s, set against the backdrop of a Glasgow Public Wash House.

LIFE in the COMMUNITY
Like most major cities, Glasgow is a collection of villages that became swallowed up as the city expanded due to industrial development. Anderston was primarily composed of communities inhabiting the former neighbourhoods of Finnieston, Cranstonhill and Broomielaw. Each tenement close within the area fostered its own unique community spirit. It was not uncommon to share a pot of soup or some baking with another neighbour who just happened to be in need at that time. All of this support was offered quietly and in a spirit of friendship. No matter how poor the fabric of a property might have been, housewives took great pride in keeping their home clean and tidy and their windows were always sparkling.

Life was very different during the 1950’s; residents of Anderston did not need to venture far for their daily requirements. Lining either side of Argyle, Stobcross and Elderslie Streets were a variety of shops that included Doctors and Dental Surgeries, Chemists, Banks, Post Offices, Clothes Shops, Butchers, Dairies, Grocers, Bakers, Cafés, Newsagents, Fish & Chip Restaurants, Fishmongers, Fruiterers and Ironmongers. Tuesday was half-day early closing for shops. Other than newsagents and dairies, shops were closed on Sunday and public transport was reduced to an hourly service.

The ‘Caledonian Model Company’ and ‘Hobbies’ were two very popular outlets for the purchase of plastic or balsawood model aircraft. Both shops were located close to each other on Argyle Street and both carried a wide-range of construction kits and a variety of suitable craft materials at prices affordable to all age groups.

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In the foreground is Anderston Primary School beyond which is the Salvation Army and the Pyramid-roofed Anderston Kelvingrove Church, immediately behind the church is St. Patrick’s RC Church, with the spire of St. Columba’s (Gaelic) in the distance. The high-rise buildings were part of the 1960’s redevelopment programme and are bounded by St. Vincent/Elderslie/Argyle Streets.

Among the few interesting buildings that managed to evade the demolition workers hammer, is the Clyde Port Authority building at 16 Robertson Street, on the junction of the Broomielaw. Designed by Sir John Burnett, the ‘Clyde Port’ building, with its highly ornate edifice, looks out of place set amidst the modern glass-fronted office blocks. Another building that has been preserved externally is the Tobacco Warehouse, in James Watt Street, built in 1854. The façade of a similar property on York Street has also been reprieved. The Buttery, at 650 Argyle Street, formerly known as The Shandon Bells, became a very fashionable venue favoured by many of the wealthier citizens of Glasgow intent on dining-out. The building housing ‘The Buttery’ was built in 1869, and carved into the exterior of the property are symbols similar to those of the Free Masons. The designation ‘Main Street’, painted on the corner of the building, could be seen well into late 1980’s.

Anderston Cross - Argyle Street c1962. The Weavers’ Pend is to the right (behind the lorry)

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